An analytic solution for the analysis of littoral deformation produced by random sea waves is proposed. The main contribution is represented by the diffusivity. It extends classical solution for periodic waves in the contest of random sea waves. Consequences of this approach are investigated studying the critical angle, defined as the angle in which diffusivity is zero. Effects of different spectral shapes and of different breaking depths are analysed. Then a comparison between the new and classic solution is proposed.

ANALYSIS OF COASTAL DEFORMATION BY WIND GENERATED WAVES / Martino, M. C.; Barbaro, Giuseppe; Malara, G. - I:(2009), pp. 130-140. (Intervento presentato al convegno 4th International Short Conference on Applied Coastal Research tenutosi a Barcellona nel 15-17 giugno 2009).

ANALYSIS OF COASTAL DEFORMATION BY WIND GENERATED WAVES

BARBARO, Giuseppe;
2009-01-01

Abstract

An analytic solution for the analysis of littoral deformation produced by random sea waves is proposed. The main contribution is represented by the diffusivity. It extends classical solution for periodic waves in the contest of random sea waves. Consequences of this approach are investigated studying the critical angle, defined as the angle in which diffusivity is zero. Effects of different spectral shapes and of different breaking depths are analysed. Then a comparison between the new and classic solution is proposed.
2009
978-88-6093-069-9
Diffusitivity; Coastal deformation; Wind generated waves; Critical angle; Spectral shapes
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12318/18998
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