An analytic solution for the analysis of littoral deformation produced by random sea waves is proposed. The main contribution is represented by the diffusivity. It extends classical solution for periodic waves in the contest of random sea waves. Consequences of this approach are investigated studying the critical angle, defined as the angle in which diffusivity is zero. Effects of different spectral shapes and of different breaking depths are analysed. Then a comparison between the new and classic solution is proposed.

ANALYSIS OF COASTAL DEFORMATION BY WIND GENERATED WAVES

BARBARO, Giuseppe;
2009

Abstract

An analytic solution for the analysis of littoral deformation produced by random sea waves is proposed. The main contribution is represented by the diffusivity. It extends classical solution for periodic waves in the contest of random sea waves. Consequences of this approach are investigated studying the critical angle, defined as the angle in which diffusivity is zero. Effects of different spectral shapes and of different breaking depths are analysed. Then a comparison between the new and classic solution is proposed.
978-88-6093-069-9
Diffusitivity; Coastal deformation; Wind generated waves; Critical angle; Spectral shapes
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12318/18998
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