This paper deals with an analytical solution of the shoreline evolution due to random sea waves. The phenomenon of the shoreline change is modeled by means of a one-line theory. The solution is based on the hypotheses that thedeviation of the shoreline planform from the general shoreline alignment (x-axis) approaches zero and that a particular relationshipbetween higher order derivatives of the shoreline holds. It is proved that the shoreline evolution is described by a diffusion equation, in which the diffusivity G1R is a function of the sea state and the sediment characteristics. Next, particularattention is dedicated to the longshore diffusivity. Its behaviour is analysed and effects of different spectral shapes and of different breaking depths are investigated. It is shown that the diffusivity assumes both positive and negative values.

Analytical Development of a One-Line Model for the Analysis of Shoreline Change by Wind Generated Waves

BARBARO G;MALARA G;ARENA F
2010

Abstract

This paper deals with an analytical solution of the shoreline evolution due to random sea waves. The phenomenon of the shoreline change is modeled by means of a one-line theory. The solution is based on the hypotheses that thedeviation of the shoreline planform from the general shoreline alignment (x-axis) approaches zero and that a particular relationshipbetween higher order derivatives of the shoreline holds. It is proved that the shoreline evolution is described by a diffusion equation, in which the diffusivity G1R is a function of the sea state and the sediment characteristics. Next, particularattention is dedicated to the longshore diffusivity. Its behaviour is analysed and effects of different spectral shapes and of different breaking depths are investigated. It is shown that the diffusivity assumes both positive and negative values.
One-line model
Shoreline
Analytical
Sea waves
Longshore diffusivity
Wave spectrum
File in questo prodotto:
File Dimensione Formato  
Barbaro_2010_tooej_analytical.pdf

accesso aperto

Descrizione: Versione Editoriale
Tipologia: Versione Editoriale (PDF)
Licenza: Dominio pubblico
Dimensione 2.08 MB
Formato Adobe PDF
2.08 MB Adobe PDF Visualizza/Apri

I documenti in IRIS sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.

Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12318/5435
Citazioni
  • ???jsp.display-item.citation.pmc??? ND
  • Scopus ND
  • ???jsp.display-item.citation.isi??? ND
social impact