The paper deals with the non-linear effects for sea wave groups. Boccotti’s quasi-determinism theory, which is exact to the first-order in a Stokes expansion, gives the mechanics of sea wave groups when either a very high crest (first formulation of the theory — ‘New wave’), or a large crest-to-trough wave height (second formulation of the theory) occurs. In this paper, the quasi-determinism theory, in both formulations, is extended to the second-order, by obtaining the expressions of free surface displacement and velocity potential, as a function of wave spectrum. Finally it is shown that analytical predictions are in good agreement with both field data and data of Monte Carlo simulations of non-linear random waves.
On Non-Linear Very Large Sea Wave Groups
ARENA, Felice
2005-01-01
Abstract
The paper deals with the non-linear effects for sea wave groups. Boccotti’s quasi-determinism theory, which is exact to the first-order in a Stokes expansion, gives the mechanics of sea wave groups when either a very high crest (first formulation of the theory — ‘New wave’), or a large crest-to-trough wave height (second formulation of the theory) occurs. In this paper, the quasi-determinism theory, in both formulations, is extended to the second-order, by obtaining the expressions of free surface displacement and velocity potential, as a function of wave spectrum. Finally it is shown that analytical predictions are in good agreement with both field data and data of Monte Carlo simulations of non-linear random waves.I documenti in IRIS sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.
